Letter D to J
A sling sewn (or tied) with numerous loops, used as an adjustable sling in
A dynamic move where the next hold is grabbed at the dead point of the
The usually unfriendly surface that wellcomes you at the end of a
Device used for rappeling.
US slang which means as much as 'Lower me'.
Double fisherman's knot
Solid knot used to tie two ropes or pieces of webbing together (Aka
Same as a half rope. Also the technique using two half ropes.
Descending the difficult way.
Generic name for a climber (in the US).
A belay method in which some rope is allowed to slip during severe falls.
A dynamic belay can severely reduce the impact force from a serious fall,
but can also severely kill you if not done properly.
Dynamic movement towards a distant hold.
A sharp edge on a rock face.
Foot technique where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on
small footholds. The opposite of smearing.
To have a sewing maching leg. Named after "Elvis, the King", who
suffered from this this problem when singing before a crowd of screaming
The story of a well planned climb that turned into a grueling adventure that
turned out well in the end. As these stories are told over and over again -
and they always are - the details get stretched to supernatural proportions
for dramatic effect.
(Pronounce with a french accent). Webbing ladder used for aid climbing.
Also known as 'aider'.
Not crack climbing.
A dynamic retreat from a climb (free-solo rappel). Note that it is never the
fall that kills, it's the landing.
Yelled when a climber is (about to) fall.
The length of the fall divided by the amount of rope paid out.
A PVC tube used to store solid human waste on big walls. Aka the Shit
An open hook used to allow easy clipping during aid climbing. Usually
found on aiders, daisy chains, etc.
Metal rappelling/belaying device shaped like an 8.
Figure of eight
Very popular and solid tie-in knot.
Masochistic technique to twist and wedge the fingers into a crack.
Old, well consolidated snow. Often a left-over from the previous season.
Closer to ice than snow in density, it may require the use of crampons.
Simple knot to tie two ropes together. The double fisherman knot,
however, is more popular.
To lead a climb with no falls or dogging and with no previous attempts on
the climb. Two variations exist: the onsight flash (where the climber has
never seen the climb before) and the beta flash (where the climber has
studied the climb before or has seen someone do the climb). See there.
A thin bit of rock that is detached from the main face.
A crack or chimney with sides that are not parallel, but instead form two
converging planes of rock.
Not leading a climb.
Moving up a rock using only hands, feet, and natural holds. Ropes and pro
are only used for protection of the climber and not for progression.
Free climbing while using no ropes for protection. You fall - you die.
Trade name for the original camming devices, now also available as
Camalots, TCU's, Quads, Aliens, Big Dudes, etc.
The part of the karibiner that opens.
A slowly moving permanent mass of ice.
A wake up call for the belayer, used to warn her that you are about to
some weight on the rope.
A number denoting the seriousness of a route (not to be confused with the
rating of climb, which describes the technical difficulty). In Britain,
however, the word grade means both grade and rating. Look here for the
Not being able to hold on to a particularly slick hold, due to the presence of
sweat, lactic acid or sand. Not uncommon in overused crags
A fall where the kinetic energy is not absorbed by the rope and pro, but
rather by mother earth itself. Can hurt badly.
Nifty but somewhat controversial belaying device made by Petzl.
Paralyzed with fear and utterly confused.
A wide, shallow ravine on a mountainside.
High Altitude Cerebral Edema. Liquid in the brain as a result of high
altitude exposure. Few people live to tell what it is like.
A rope of 9 or 8.5 mm that has to be used together with a second rope
when leading a climb.
Slightly masochistic technique where the hand is wedged into a crack.
Big banana-shaped hold often found in indoor gyms. Great for waving
hello to admiring bystanders. It may sound bizarre, but I've never seen one
of those outdoors...
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Liquid in the lungs as a result of high
altitude exposure. Pretty serious condition that can quickly lead to HACE
if a descent to lower altitudes is not made immediately. See also HACE.
Piece of clothing that identifies you as a climber. The coolness factor can
be significantly enhanced by hanging things from the harness that go cling.
Large and robust bag used to haul food, water, climbing gear, sleeping bag,
television, satelite dish, and other essential equipment that is required, up a
big wall. Also know as "the pig".
Where the face of a mountain steepens dramatically.
The vocal alternative to 6 signals a minute. In far away countries, try
S.O.S. -- it doesn't mean anything but is understood by most.
Solid plastic device that can sometimes protect the head from falling
stones or impact (Aka a brainbucket).
Short for Hexentrix. A type of nut with an excentric hexadiagonal shape.
Works for wedging (as a nut) but also for camming.
A beautifully shaped pocket with a positive lip named after these
increabible features found at the Hueco Tanks bouldering area in Texas.
Karibiner with one wide side used for belaying with a munter hitch (aka
pearabiner). From the German term for munter hitch belay:
Anything that can be held on to.
Spike of rock that can be for a great hold or not so great protection. The
same as a chickenhead.
That member of the climbing team that is suffering from severe exposure
to alcoholic beverages the night before.
Device used for ice climbing, glacier crossing, or scaring away burglars.
A protection device for ice climbing. Looks like a large bolt that can be
screwed in hard ice.
Munter hitch knot or HMS knot
Wedging body parts in a crack.
Very large hold (short for jug handle) (Aka "bucket" in the US).
Big wall lingo for Jumars or any other type of ascenders.
To jumar up a line (big wall lingo).
A type of rope ascending device.
To ascend a rope using ascenders.